July issue 2009

An eclectic mix of Karachi’s fashion lovers escaped the sizzling heat at designer Nida Azwer’s fashion show titled ‘A Curious Mind.’ The young, demure talent debuted her summer collection of prêt, couture and bridal clothes on a dramatic runway with suspended white origami-esque paper birds and a revolving door accented with mirrors, an oversized chair and the designer’s logo. The models, styled and choreographed by Nabila, bore fern-like hair. The show started with models stepping out of the swivelling wings clad in long pleated kameezes — harbingers of the revival of the ’80s traditional cuts. Azwer’s prêt line consisted of rich satiny silk fabrics and chiffons, which were embellished with sparkling butterflies in kamdani, Oriental and Indian-influenced screen prints and Mughal-inspired meticulous miniatures. Azwer’s colour palette ranged from lavish magentas and fuchsias to earthy forest greens. A few dresses were also part of the prêt collection.

The designer’s couture line showcased her preference for traditional cuts as embroidered izaars and churidaars were worn with long, flowing kameezes, vintage oversized coats with heavy zardozi, marrori and vasli work. The trendy and sexy appeal of her clothes was highlighted through super low-cut backs, short cholis, halter sari blouses and patchwork bolero jackets worn over kameezes. A few cholis seemed a little makeshift on the models. Somewhat surprising, since regular clientele have always praised the fit and finishing of Azwer’s clothes. Her dusky pink kaamdani sari, renaissance-style coat with gharara, and brown halter kameez with miniatures drew applause from the audience.

Nuances of Oriental and Indian culture came across in Azwer’s bridal line through her use of colour and stitch. Heavily adorned low-back cholis and sweeping ghararas were in festive shocking pink and green to earthy white, deep red, green, black and gold. A long green coat was teamed up with a short swanky jacket and cream gharara, and a favourite was a blood-red kameez with high slits at the front and back.

As media personnel flocked to gauge the audience’s reaction at the end of the show, most people were of the view that Azwer’s brilliance was visible in the first half — the right cuts and the right colours. But the second half was slightly over the top with colour combos that didn’t always work and very heavy embellishment that struck a discordant note. But, all in all, Nida Azwer is a designer to watch out for.