February Issue 2007

Hassan Sheheryar Yasin’s accent may not sound Pakistani, but his design ethos is Pakistani to the core. And for good reason. “We cater to Pakistani women,” says this renowned Lahore-based designer.

Still, he has his critics. Some say his style is too traditional and that he should experiment with western styling. HSY’s reply is as straightforward as his approach to design: “Why? Are we living in New York?” he says rhetorically. “Our styles are traditional because in Pakistan we have strong traditions.”

He says it doesn’t make business sense to do otherwise. “Ask the designers here who make skirts about how many they sell. My training is in western designs. I can do gowns too, but people aren’t going to wear them.”

His is a simple design strategy. HSY has no reason to adopt radical changes and in fact, he dismisses unnecessary change and frivolous surprise in design. “I don’t follow crazy trends. I have a signature style; it has an eastern mood — and that remains,” he says. He uses two words to sum up his signature design style: “Timeless elegance.”

HSY points to Giorgio Armani as an example. Armani has a signature style. He always has, he does not waver from it, and he’s been one of the most successful international designers.

“People’s personalities don’t change. Someone with an Audrey Hepburn style doesn’t wake up one day and decide to be like Pamela Anderson,” he says matter-of-factly. “Once you are Audrey Hepburn, you are always Audrey Hepburn.”

For HSY, the Pakistani influence goes beyond styling; it filters right down to the basics of his creations: the material. HSY only works with indigenous fabrics. All his fabrics are sourced from, manufactured and produced in Pakistan. And all are natural — he refuses to use anything synthetic.

Still, some change is always necessary to grow and move with the times. In Lahore, he is adding a whole new floor to his boutique. In this new expanded retail space, there will be a brand new bridal studio and he will showcase his new collection. “Some will find it beautiful,” he says. But there won’t be too many surprises. “We are not going for surprises. We are not about shock; shock sensationalism, that is not us. We are out to please.” He pauses, then adds dryly, “We do not want to be responsible for the next one-sleeved shirt.”

Hasan finds little that is truly inspiring emanating from his designing peers. “Some designers are doing good stuff. And there are lots of designers who I look up to, but I have not been moved by any fashion revolution,” he says. “There are consistently good and consistently bad designers. Nothing shocks me.”

To preserve his own style, HSY subscribes to the belief that ‘too many chefs spoil the broth.’ He oversees everything himself and will not allow his personal stamp to be diluted by involving too many people on the designing table. In fact, this is a key element in his brand management strategy.

“It’s not just a label. It’s a lifestyle,” states HSY. “People buy into the lifestyle. People want more than quality. They want a whole image.”

And clearly, his aim is to bring this lifestyle to a greater audience. HSY’s ready-to-wear line, R2W, which produces a new seasonal collection four times a year, is entering its second year, and he now has a jewellery and a men’s wear line. All are carefully marketed under the HSY brand.

But as Pakistani as his label is, his reach extends beyond Pakistan’s borders. As Newsline was talking to HSY, he was busy prepping for a show in Bahrain — for which he was leaving the very next day. The commotion around him was frantic. His voice was laced with stress. On show would be his winter 2006 collection, and on hand to appreciate his creations would be none other than the Queen of Bahrain.

HSY says he does more shows internationally than any other Pakistani designer. “My aim is to take Pakistani fashion out to as many places as possible,” he says. “Internationally, there is a very poor image of Pakistan because of what is going on politically.” Doing shows, meeting people and educating the world about what else Pakistan has to offer is a core component of what he does. “These type of projects are not just to help HSY, but they are helpful, in the long-run, for everyone.”